Choux pastry
- 100 g water
- 100 g whole milk
- 4 g salt
- 6 g caster sugar
- 100 g butter
- 120 g plain flour T55
- 230 g eggs (~4–5 eggs)
Coffee crémeux
- 200 g whole milk
- 20 g instant coffee powder
- 125 g double cream (30%)
- 160 g egg yolks
- 180 g whole eggs
- 160 g caster sugar
- 160 g butter
- 3 gelatin sheets (soaked)
Mascarpone mousse
- 100 g egg yolks
- 50 g + 25 g caster sugar
- 500 g mascarpone
- 15 g amaretto
- 75 g egg whites
Ladyfinger sponge (biscuit cuillère)
- 65 g plain flour
- 65 g potato starch
- 125 g egg whites
- 100 g egg yolks
- 125 g caster sugar
- icing sugar, for dusting
Coffee soak
- 500 g strong brewed coffee
- 50 g amaretto
Finishing
- unsweetened cocoa powder
A tiramisu built around choux pastry instead of ladyfingers. The coffee crémeux replaces the soaking syrup — it is piped inside the choux alongside the mascarpone mousse, so every bite has the coffee concentration without the structural compromise of wet biscuits. The ladyfinger sponge at the base is soaked, as in a classic tiramisu, providing the textural contrast. More complex than the original, but the coffee flavour is sharper and more precise.
Method
Choux pastry
- Bring water, milk, salt, sugar, and butter to a rolling boil. Add all flour at once, stir vigorously until the dough pulls away from the sides and a film forms on the pan.
- Transfer to a stand mixer and beat briefly to release steam. Add eggs gradually — the batter is ready when it falls from the paddle in a slow ribbon that folds back on itself.
- Pipe large rounds (5–6cm). Bake at 180°C for 45 minutes without opening the oven. Cool on a rack.
Coffee crémeux
- Heat milk with instant coffee until dissolved. Add cream. Whisk yolks, whole eggs, and sugar together. Temper with the hot coffee milk.
- Return to the pan and cook to 82°C, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Add squeezed gelatin sheets, then butter. Blend with an immersion blender.
- Cover with plastic wrap on the surface. Cool, then refrigerate until set.
Mascarpone mousse
- Beat egg yolks with 50g sugar until pale and thick. Add mascarpone and amaretto. Mix until smooth.
- Whip egg whites with the remaining 25g sugar to soft peaks. Fold into the mascarpone mixture in two additions — do not deflate. Use immediately or refrigerate and use within 2 hours.
Ladyfinger sponge
- Whip egg whites with sugar to firm, glossy peaks. Fold in egg yolks. Sift in flour and potato starch together, fold gently in two additions.
- Pipe rounds to fit the base of the choux (or a tray). Dust generously with icing sugar — twice, 5 minutes apart. Bake at 180°C for 10–12 minutes. Cool.
- Soak with the coffee-amaretto mixture: brush generously, let absorb, brush again.
Assembly
- Slice each choux in half horizontally. Place a soaked ladyfinger sponge disc on the base.
- Pipe coffee crémeux inside the base. Pipe mascarpone mousse over the crémeux, filling the choux generously.
- Replace the choux lid. Dust generously with unsweetened cocoa powder. Refrigerate 1 hour minimum before serving.
The assembly should be done the same day. The mascarpone mousse loses its lightness after overnight storage.
Background
The tension in this dessert is between the airy choux shell and the dense, rich fillings. The choux must be baked fully dry — any residual moisture and it softens within an hour of filling. The 45 minutes at 180°C without opening the oven is not excessive; it is necessary.
The coffee crémeux concentrates the coffee flavour through cooking rather than soaking. Instant coffee dissolves completely in hot milk without the bitterness of brewed coffee reduced too far. The gelatin set is light — the crémeux should be just firm enough to pipe cleanly, not so set that it feels gelatinous.
The double icing sugar dusting on the ladyfinger sponge is what creates the thin caramelised crust that resists soaking until the last moment. Without it, the sponge absorbs the coffee too quickly and becomes sodden. With it, the sponge holds its structure through the assembly.
Mistakes I've Made
- Choux not fully baked. The shells soften within 30 minutes of filling and collapse. Bake the full 45 minutes. If they colour too fast, reduce to 170°C but do not shorten the time.
- Mascarpone mousse made too far ahead. The egg white foam deflates and the mousse becomes dense. Make it as close to assembly as possible.
- Too little coffee crémeux. The filling is too rich from the mousse without the coffee contrast. Pipe the crémeux generously — it is the seasoning of the dessert.
- Skipping the icing sugar crust on the sponge. The base becomes wet and the choux slides. The double dusting is essential.
Sources
- Tiramichoux —